If you struggle to get it through the slot, try pinching it more sharply, perhaps even using your teeth! Orient the ATC so the rope runs from the anchor either left to right or up to down. Take the ATC off your rappel carabiner, pinch the rope sharply and push it into one of the slots from the top. After you have chosen your desired mode, step over the rope so it is on your right as you face the anchor. The ATC-XP is pretty straightforward to set up. In the very worst case, enough sheath bunching can get you stuck! I tend to use the “2” Mode except on 8mm raps longer than 60 feet, where I go to the “3” Mode or set up a leg loop biner (as shown in a future Tech Tip). Especially when wet, this can set up a disconcerting chattering action as the rope runs through the device in extreme cases, a clump of sheath can accumulate below your device. The high-friction side tends to “squeegee” the rope, encouraging the sheath to slip on the core. The features of the Critr allow easier performance of rescue tasks, should they be necessary.Īll hunky-dory, right? Well… I prefer the low-friction side of the ATC-XP. I prefer the Critr for wet and Class-C canyons, and for canyons with lots of rappels. When canyons involve more climbing and less rappelling, the ATC shines as it gets in the way less. I use the ATC-XP for canyons with few rappels, when I am going with competent partners, as the ATC is lighter and more compact than the Critr. It is not suitable for use in Class-C (flowing water) canyons, and should be scrupulously avoided as it does not tolerate twists in the rope and crap on the rope like Critrs or other Figure-8 based devices do. The ATC-XP is a pretty good rappel device for dry canyons ( Canyon Ratings), and non-flowing wet canyons (Class A and Class B). Using the Black Diamond ATC-XP For Canyoneering The ATC-XP also has more material, which results in a longer useful life. It features an asymmetric design, with one side providing significantly more friction. The ATC-XP was designed 10 years later by Jonny Woodward to provide more friction when using skinny 8mm ice-climbing ropes. While there are many imitations, the original holds a dear place in my heart for its elegance of design. The Black Diamond ATC revolutionized belaying in rock climbing. Chuck also looked at the sharpness of the edge the rope passed over, and we made that edge sharper (than on a Sticht Plate) to generate more friction, thus providing the belayer with better control. By holding the slots a half-inch above the biner, rope could be fed under tension, and the mechanics of providing a good belay became much easier. My buddy Chuck Brainerd designed it as a variation on the Chouinard Micro-Belay Plates, which were really a variation on the Sticht Plate. The problem with Sticht plate devices was when the climber pulled hard on the rope, the plate would move down and lock against the carabiner, trapping the rope. Please remember it can take some time for your bank or credit card company to process and post the refund too.I worked for Black Diamond in 1990-1991 when the ATC was developed and had a small role in its evolution. If approved, you’ll be automatically refunded on your original payment method. We will notify you once we’ve received and inspected your return, and let you know if the refund was approved or not. The fastest way to ensure you get what you want is to return the item you have, and once the return is accepted, make a separate purchase for the new item. Unfortunately, we cannot accept returns on sale items or gift cards. Please get in touch if you have questions or concerns about your specific item. We also do not accept returns for hazardous materials, flammable liquids, or gases. Please inspect your order upon reception and contact us immediately if the item is defective, damaged or if you receive the wrong item, so that we can evaluate the issue and make it right.Ĭertain types of items cannot be returned, like perishable goods (such as food, flowers, or plants), custom products (such as special orders or personalized items), and personal care goods (such as beauty products). You can always contact us for any return question at and issues Items sent back to us without first requesting a return will not be accepted. To start a return, you can contact us at If your return is accepted, we’ll send you a return shipping label, as well as instructions on how and where to send your package. You’ll also need the receipt or proof of purchase. To be eligible for a return, your item must be in the same condition that you received it, unworn or unused, with tags, and in its original packaging. We have a 30-day return policy, which means you have 30 days after receiving your item to request a return.
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